Tuesday, September 2, 2014

From the American Herbalist Guild - Herbal Medicine Fundamentals

I thought this would be an interesting addition - it comes directly from the American Herbalist Guild website where I am currently a member.

The American Herbalists Guild, a non-profit, educational organization for the furtherance of herbalism, frequently receives questions about herbs. The following are among the most commonly asked. If any of your questions are not answered here, you may contact them for further information. http://www.americanherbalistsguild.com/
WHAT IS AN HERB?
Medicinally, an herb is any plant part or plant used for its therapeutic value. Yet, many of the world's herbal traditions also include mineral and animal substances as “herbal medicines"?.
WHAT IS HERBAL MEDICINE?
Herbal medicine is the art and science of using herbs for promoting health and preventing and treating illness. It has persisted as the world's primary form of medicine since the beginning of time, with a written history more than 5000 years old. While the use of herbs in America has been overshadowed by dependence on modern medications the last 100 years, 75% of the world's population still rely primarily upon traditional healing practices, most of which is herbal medicine.
HOW ARE HERBS DIFFERENT FROM PHARMACEUTICALS?
Most pharmaceutical drugs are single chemical entities that are highly refined and purified and are often synthesized. In 1987 about 85% of modern drugs were originally derived from plants. Currently, only about 15% of drugs are derived from plants. In contrast, herbal medicines are prepared from living or dried plants and contain hundreds to thousands of interrelated compounds. Science is beginning to demonstrate that the safety and effectiveness of herbs is often related to the synergy of its many constituents.
HOW IS HERBAL MEDICINE DIFFERENT FROM CONVENTIONAL MEDICINE?
The primary focus of the herbalist is to treat people as individuals irrespective of the disease or condition they have and to stimulate their innate healing power through the use of such interventions as herbs, diet and lifestyle. The primary focus of conventional physicians is to attack diseases using strong chemicals that are difficult for the body to process, or through the removal of organs. Not only does this ignore the unique makeup of the individual, but many patients under conventional care suffer from side effects that are as bad as the condition being treated. The philosophical difference between herbalists and conventional physicians has profound significance.
WHAT IS AN HERBALIST?
Herbalists are people who dedicate their lives to working with medicinal plants. They include native healers, scientists, naturopaths, holistic medical doctors, researchers, writers, herbal pharmacists, medicine makers, wild crafters, harvesters and herbal farmers to name a few. While herbalists are quite varied, the common love and respect for life, especially the relationship between plants and humans, unites them. Persons specializing in the therapeutic use of plants may be medical herbalists, traditional herbalists, acupuncturists, midwives, naturopathic physicians, or even one's own grandmother.
HOW CAN HERBS AND HERBAL MEDICINE HELP ME?
Herbs can offer you a wide range of safe and effective therapeutic agents that you can use as an integral part of your own health care program. They can be used in three essential ways:
1.      to prevent disease
2.      to treat disease
3.      to maximize one's health potential.
Herbs are also used for the symptomatic relief of minor ailments.
HOW CAN I KNOW IF A PARTICULAR HERB WILL WORK FOR ME?
Medicine is an art, not just a science. No one can predict which herb will work best for every individual in all situations. This can only come with educated self-experimentation and experience or by seeking the assistance of those who are knowledgeable in clinical herbal medicine. The simpler the condition, the easier it is to find a solution. The more complicated the condition, the greater the need there is to seek expert advice.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE FOR HERBS TO BE EFFECTIVE?
The success of herbal treatment always depends upon a variety of factors including how long the condition has existed, the severity of the condition, the dosage and mode of administration of the herb(s) and how diligently treatment plans are followed. It can be as short as 60 seconds when using a spoonful of herbal bitters for gas and bloating after a heavy meal; 20 minutes when soaking in a bath with rosemary tea for a headache; days when using tonics to build energy; or months to correct long-standing gynecological imbalances. Difficult chronic conditions can often take years to reverse.
HOW SAFE ARE HERBS?
It depends on the herbs. Most herbs sold as dietary supplements are very safe. When used appropriately, the majority of herbs used by practitioners have no adverse side effects. A review of the traditional and scientific literature worldwide demonstrates that serious side effects from the use of herbal medicines are rare. According to Norman Farnsworth: “Based on published reports, side effects or toxic reactions associated with herbal medicines in any form are rare. In fact, of all classes of substances reported to cause toxicities of sufficient magnitude to be reported in the United States, plants are the least problematic."
WHERE CAN I GET SAFETY INFORMATION?
Read product labels carefully. Many manufacturers provide appropriate information. There are also a number of references that are commonly available (see sidebar). As with all medicines, the primary determination of whether a medicine is appropriate for you is based on your own experience.
HOW IS THE HERBAL INDUSTRY REGULATED?
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) primarily regulates the marketing and advertising of products.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) primarily regulates the manufacture and labeling of herbal products and has legal authority over assuring that products are manufactured correctly and are truthfully labeled with respect to ingredients and claims. Additionally, there are a number of trade associations that require member companies to adhere to specific codes of ethics and conduct their own testing programs.
HOW DO HERBALISTS PRACTICE?
Herbalists can practice either as primary health care providers or adjunctive health care consultants. Most visits to an herbalist begin with a consultation about your past and current health history, your dietary and lifestyle practices, or other factors related to your health issue. The herbalist, with your involvement, should develop an integrated herbal program that addresses your specific health needs and concerns. You should be treated as a whole person, not as a disease.
ARE THERE DIFFERENT APPROACHES TO USING HERBS?
Various herbal traditions have developed worldwide. In the West there are a number of different traditions which include folkloric herbal practices, clinical western herbal medicine, naturopathic medicine, practitioners of Ayurveda or Chinese medicine and numerous Native American herbal traditions. Some practitioners use highly developed systems of diagnosis and treatment while others base their treatments on individual knowledge and experience. Every person must find the herbal practitioner that is most appropriate for them.
ARE THERE DIFFERENT TYPES OF HERBALISTS?
Traditional Western, or Community Herbalists base their work on traditional folk medicine or indications of historical uses of herbs and modern scientific information. Backgrounds may include folk, Native American, eclectic, wise woman, earth-centered or other traditions. They may be trained through traditional or non-traditional methods such as apprenticeships, schools or self-study. Medical or Clinical Herbalists are present in the United States and in most of the nations in the European Union. Professional education is offered in the USA and throughout Europe in a variety of formats. Most programs cover the traditional uses of herbs, the basic medical sciences of biochemistry, nutrition and anatomy as well as diagnosis and prescription. The most common titles given to medical herbalists from the Western world include: RH (AHG), Registered Herbalist, American Herbalists Guild; MCPP Member, College of Practitioners of Phytotherapy; FNIMH
 Fellow, National Institute of Medical Herbalists; MNIMH Member, National Institute of Medical Herbalists; FNHAA Fellow, National Herbalists Association of Australia.
Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), the traditional medicine system of China, is the second-largest medical system in the world after Western medicine. TCM doctors go through extensive training in theory, practice, herbal therapy and acupuncture. Quite a few states now license acupuncturists, and many consider them primary health care providers. Their titles may include L.Ac. Licensed Acupuncturist; OMD Doctor of Oriental Medicine; or Dip. C.H. (NCCA) Diplomat of Chinese Herbology from the National Commission for the Certification of Acupuncturists.
Traditional Ayurvedic Medicine, (Ayurveda), the traditional medical system of India and Nepal, is the third largest herbal medicine system in the world today. Ayurvedic doctors treat more than 80 percent of the people on the Indian subcontinent and go through extensive training that can last as long as 12 years. Some use the title M.D. (Ayur.) when they come to English speaking countries, while those who have passed the accreditation process of the American Ayurvedic Association are given the title D.Av. Diplomate in Ayurvedic Health Sciences.
Naturopathic Medicine integrates traditional natural therapeutics with modern scientific medical diagnoses and western medical standards of care. Most licensed naturopathic physicians, (N.D.) have received full medical training at one of four fully accredited medical universities in North America. There are currently 13 states that license the practice of naturopathic medicine.
HOW DO I CHOOSE A QUALIFIED HERBALIST?
First and foremost recognize that the relationship between a health care provider and a client should begin with clearly articulated goals and responsibilities. Every client should be fully informed of the experience, training and services provided by the practitioner. Similarly, the provider should clearly understand the goals and desires of the client. Together the client and provider must determine if the experience and services provided meet the needs of the client. For help in finding a qualified herbalist, either contact your local health food or herb store for referrals, ask for recommendations from people whose judgment you trust, or contact a national organization such as the American Herbalists Guild.
The American Herbalists Guild (AHG) was founded in 1989 as a non-profit, educational organization to represent the goals and voices of herbalists. It is the only peer-review organization in the United States for professional herbalists specializing in the medicinal use of plants.
Herbalists from any tradition with sufficient education and clinical experience, who demonstrate advanced knowledge in the medicinal use of plants and who pass the AHG credentialing process (a careful review by a multidisciplinary admissions board) receive professional status and the title, Registered Herbalist, AHG. The AHG has a developed a code of ethics, continuing education program and specific standards for professional members. The American Herbalists Guild's roster of professional members includes some of the most respected herbal authorities in the United States and abroad. Please contact the American Herbalists Guild for a free brochure or find a professional member in the National Directory of Professional AHG members.


Wednesday, July 30, 2014

A Krautin We Will Go! Even when its hot outside!

June and July have been really hot in New West, which has its ups and its downs. The most glorious part of all of this is that the garden is growing and I am finding myself overloaded with produce, some of which are coming in nearly a month ahead of schedule!!

I had a recent problem with my "Fall Cabbage" this problem being that they were suppose to be ready for harvest in August/September and not in the middle of July. The cabbage I have growing in my garden is an organic heritage variety known as Copenhagen Market which makes a really beautiful and large head!  If you are friends with me on facebook you have seen these two photos before.



These are my fine cabbages before they were fine sour Kraut, you can see the garden in the background, I am standing in front of a heritage corn called crystal corn and in the middle are some really big zucchini. But I digress...back to the cabbage! The idea of making sauerkraut is not a foreign one to me, I've been making it with my family since I was a little girl, the only problem was, I was used to making it in September/October when the weather was cooler and fermentation took roughly 30 days. Knowing the temperature difference put me into a little bit of a panic so I went to my favorite homesteading forum on the web which is www.permies.com (I highly suggest you check it out!). I was able to get some help from a lovely lady in Atlanta who makes kraut all times of year, the rule for fermentation was this:

  • 1 day of fermentation per every 10 degrees above the freezing zone (35 to 37 Fahrenheit, not enough to completely freeze, but enough to keep fermentation slow)

  • Ingredients:
    • Cabbage
    • Salt
Knowing that it was around 85 degrees outside I knew that it would take roughly 5 days to ferment - mind you, I did this for 15lbs of raw cabbage, you would have to experiment a bit (watch and taste your fermented mix every day or so).

Here is a photo of some of the cabbages, as you can see they were so large and over ripe that some cracked! I was able to cut off the brown edges and then slice them fine for the kraut.


The next step was a pretty important one, weighing the kraut AFTER it is cut up. You can use a digital or regular kitchen scale and don't forget to first weigh your vessel so that you can subtract it from each weight measurement.

I divided all the fresh sliced cabbage into 1 lb. increments, put it into the stone crock and then added 2 tsp. of salt. The salt I used was raw Celtic sea salt, this is a far better alternative to iodized salt as it has all of its nutrients and minerals in tact.

  • 1lb of Cabbage ='s 2 tsp. of salt.

At this point you take a masher and begin to pound your 1 lb. of cabbage with your 2 tsp. of salt, the masher is usually wood with an X shape, flat panel with holes drilled into it, or in my case, a triangle that does not fill the entirety of the bottom. The goal in pounding the holy living begeez out of your cabbage is to cause a chemical reaction in which enzymes are released and are mixed with the salt, thus starting the fermentation process. Each lb. of cabbage needs to be pounded until liquids are released. After this you add each additional lb. repeating the same action. When all the cabbage is in you continue with the mashing until fluid can rise over the top.

Allow for me to demonstrate!




As one can tell, I am a bit off my rocker, but I DO love cabbage. Once your fluid is over your cabbage you will want to get it ready for the fermentation process. At this point I take a clean piece of cheese cloth and lay it over the top of the cabbage, followed by a plastic bag to cover all the edges. Next I take a large 1 gallon zip lock bag and fill it with water, placing it on top to give weight and to keep pressing the cabbage down. And finally a thick kitchen towel to keep it all snug.


Keeping in mind the temperature I left it for about 5 days in my dark pantry (I like mine to be very krauty tasting). Please keep in mind that if you make kraut in the fall the time for fermentation will vastly increase, in cold temperatures it can take as much as 30 days.

Here is a photo of my finished product:


Please note: Sometimes a mildew will form at the top while you are fermenting your cabbage, please do not fear the mold, simply scrape it off and toss it out, then dip your greedy little hands into the vile smelling mix and taste of the glorious fruits of your labors! If you leave it too long it will taste a bit off, if its not done it will taste like salty cabbage - remember, you are going for that pickled and fermented taste that we all love so very...very much.

Once your cabbage is done you can place it into appropriate sized jars for keeping. Remember, you will want to sterilize your jars in boiling water for 5 minutes and wash your rims and lips in hot soapy water. Fill your jars leaving 1/4 inch for head room and making certain that you are packing the kraut down so that the liquid covers all the cabbage. When this is through you will need to secure the lids and process the jars in a boiling water bath for 20 to 25 minutes.

Your Kraut will keep for a year + in your cupboard.

Enjoy!
- Nicey <3







Monday, July 21, 2014

Lady's Mantle - A Ladies Best Friend (June Flowering)

Its herb season and my herbs are growing at insane proportions in the herb bed. I have an over abundance of mint, thyme, marjoram, rue, sage, lobelia, calendula, sorrel, lemon balm, echinacea, and as of recently, lady's mantle.


The picture above is of the lady's mantle growing in my garden, this photo was taken about three seconds before I took my garden trimmers and butchered the new leaves and flowers (of course leaving some on the plant). Lady's mantle is an amazing herb which is used for the treatment of many issues associated with menses, fibroids, infected and weeping wounds, and many other things which I will visit later in the post.

Lady's mantle is most definitely my favorite herb for June, its beautiful green leaves and soft yellow flowers are soft and fresh and reminds me of the warm months and long days ahead.

I would like to post one local herb a month (poke me if I fall behind) and give the full monograph for its use . So, without further delay, here is some relatively boring info about an amazing medicinal plant.


Latin Name: Alchemilla monticola
Family: Rosaceae
Common Name: Lady's Mantle, Lion's Foot, Bears Foot, Nine Hoots, Leontopodium, Stellaria
Related Specie: A. arvensis, A. alpina

Botany:
Habitat: Native of the American Andes, common to Britain and the colder regions of North America, and on high-lying ground, being found up to an altitude of 3600 feet and freely found beyond the arctic circle in  Europe, Asia, Greenland, and Labrador.

Description: A perennial plant, the rootstock is black, stout, and short, the plant rising from it with slender stems. The whole plant is clothed in soft hairs. The lower leaves are large, 6 to 8 incesh in diameter and have slender stalks 6 to 18 inces long, the leaves being somewhat kidney shaped with scalloped edges. The flowers bloom from June to August and are numerous and small, only about 1/8 of an inch in diameter, being yellow/green in color in loose and divided clusters at the end of the branching stems.

Cultivation: The plant grows from a seed planted in the spring or from root clippings.

Parts Used: Leaves, Flowers, Root

Harvest: The whole herb is of use and is best in June -hang to dry. Root is harvested in the fall and should be used fresh.

Medicinal Actions: Astringent, Styptic, Vulnerary, Diuretic, Anti-inflammatory, Emmenagogue, Vulnerary, Hemostatic, Alterative, Menstrual Regulator, Tonic, Anti-Pyretic, Anti-Hemorrhagic, Digestive Tonic.

Constituents: Flavonoids, Tannins (mainly ellegitannins including dimer agromoniin and laevigatiin), Glycosides, Ellagic Acid, Salicylic Acid

Pharmacy: (Consult an Herbalist for Dispensing)
Tincture:  1:5 in 25% alcohol, dispense at 2 to 4ml 3 x daily. May be taken up to 1:1 concentration
Infusion: 2 tsp. dried herb to 1 cup boiling water. Steep 15 minutes, drink 3x daily
Dried Herb: 2 to 4g daily
Vaginal Douche (Cause everyone wants to know this): 2oz infusion to 2 pints (60g dried herb to 1 liter water). Boil water, infuse for 30 minutes. Allow to cool to a comfortable temperature, inject warm for leucorrhea, candida, inflammation.

Uses: Most commonly used as a female medicine, this herb can be used for the following.
  • Acute diarrhea
  • As a gargle or mouthwash after teeth extractions
  • Mouth Sores
  • Mouth Ulcers
  • Laryngitis
  • To stimulate appetite
  • Peptic Ulcers
  • Gastroenteritis
  • Internal Bleedings
  • Colitis with Bleeding
  • Hormonal Balancer for Irregular Menses
  • Menstrual Cramps, Fibroids, Endometriosis
  • Symptoms of Menopause
  • Vaginal Douche for Candida
  • Topically for bleeding
  • Topically for weeping eczema
  • Topically for Sores, Wounds, and Cuts
  • Rheumatism
Warnings and Contraindications:
  • Do not use while pregnant - it is generally used to aid labor
  • No drug interactions reported

To Cover My A$$:
  • I am not a Doctor, I am a student of Herbal Medicine. The above information is not meant to diagnose or treat. The gathered information is from personal knowledge and knowledge from the standard the materia medica, and from herbal tradition spanning nearly five thousand years of written information, but hey, who's really counting -right?




Sunday, July 20, 2014

Jam Without Pectin or Sugar

With school and work I've found it really difficult to make jam this year. Generally I start canning in June with strawberries, but this year had to forego due to my semi insane schedule. However, I was able to grab the tail end of the raspberry season and make enough jam for the year plus a few more for trading and gifts.

As many of you know I am pretty careful about what I put in the food I make and try to use products that are not processed and non organic, this is true for my canning as well. I do not use process sugar (I occasionally will use organic sugar, date sugar, coconut sugar, etc) and I absolutely do not use pectin (the processed gelatin powder made from the hoofs of animals, or the chemically created kind). The bottom line is you do not need sugar OR pectin to make your jam thick, the secret to jam is simply heat and time.

 On that note, I wanted to share my jam making with you so you could try it for yourself! You will notice that by cooking down your jam without sugar or pectin the taste of the fruit really stands out. If you want a weaker taste or a thinner jam, just alter the cooking time.

Raspberry Jam Ingredients:
- Raspberries
- Honey (or whatever sweetener you want to use)

I made 2 flats worth of raspberries which is roughly 20 pint sized jam jars. The ratio of sweetener to berries is really whatever you wish it to be, though I was using 1:1 (1 cup Blended Raspberry to 1 cup honey).

Here is one of the flats, purchased from the local farmers market - its the end of the season, act fast if you want to give this a go.


My first step is set-up, I wash all of my rims and tops in warm soapy water and sanitize my jars, this is done by boiling them in hot water for 10 minutes.


Next I start working on the raspberries in batches. When you have a lot it is much easier to break it down into quarters, so I mix 4 lbs of berries which reduce down to 4 cups in the blender, then add my sweetener.


You don't have to have a blender, you can mash your raspberries with a potato masher and add the sweetener of your choice when it has been mashed to a fairly smooth liquid.


The above picture is 4 lbs of blended berries with 4 cups of honey (you can use more or less, I add my sweetener when the berries have been blended and taste as I go. Remember, the berry flavor will intensify as you cook it down. From this point I use a soup ladle and pour 4 and 1/2 ladle fulls into a pot, this gives me a 1 pint jar with about 1/4 inch of head room.



The jam is cooked on medium low and once it starts to boil you must be present to stir it regularly. If you want to speed up the process, you can have multiple pots going at once, but please do yourself a favor and stagger them by 5 to 7 minutes. This means that as one jar is finishing the other will need your attention to keep from burning at the bottom before you pour it into the jam jar. Average cook time per jar is 15 to 20 minutes, you will know it is done when you can draw a line through the middle without it immediately filling in. Generally if I can say "One Mississippi" before it fills in, it is done.


When your jar is full, immediately cap it and tighten the lid. When all jars are finished you will want to process them in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Wipe off and store, these will last a year + in your cupboard.

Enjoy!!
























Thursday, July 10, 2014

The Garden in July - What to Harvest, What to Reseed, and What to Plant for Winter.

The garden is exploding! I have artichokes that are nearly four feet high, I have completely harvested our first planting of lettuce and will soon be eating the next batch, and I am pulling massive beets from the roots bed. For this New Westminster gardener July is a time of plenty!

Here are a few photos of the garden in July:





As you can see, the beds are exploding, and the flowers and herbs are all blooming! I even took a close-up of one of 100's of lady bugs that are feasting on nasty black aphids (they seem to love the soft tender under leaf of my artichoke - I refuse to spray with harsh chemicals so between the natural spray, the lady bugs and my eagerness to squish them, the plants are coming back around).

Here is a list of what I have harvested and will be harvesting in July:
  • Peas
  • Snap Peas
  • Lettuce
  • Chard
  • Bush Beans
  • Pole Beans
  • Zucchini
  • Cucumber
  • Late Strawberries
  • Goose Berries
  • Peppers
  • Beets
  • Green Onions
  • Cabbage (Planted in April)
  • Calendula - for herbal remedies
  • Lady's Mantle - for herbal remedies
  • Yarrow - for herbal remedies
  • Lobelia - for herbal remedies
  • Cat nip - for herbal remedies
  • Oregano - for herbal remedies
  • Hyssop - for herbal remedies
  • Boneset - for herbal remedies
  • Lavender - for herbal remedies
Reseeds in  July - Early Autumn Crop:
  • Peas
  • Snap Peas
  • Lettuce
  • Chard
  • Beets
  • Onions
  • Carrots
Reseeds or plants in July- Winter Crops:
  • Cabbage
  • Beets
  • Carrots
  • Onions
  • Rutabaga
  • Florence Fennel
  • Broccoli
  • Beans - Bush/Pole (harvest in Sept)
  • Kohlrabi
  • Chard
  • Chervil
  • Collards
  • Kale
  • Turnips
  • Spinach
It is very possible to harvest and grow year round in Vancouver. Happy planting!




Wednesday, July 9, 2014

The 1-2-3's of Omega 3's (Hippocrates Institute of Health)

by Tom Fisher, RN, BA
 
 
Alpha-linolenic (ALA) acid is a type of omega-3 fatty acid found in plants. It is similar to the omega-3 fatty acids in algal oil, called eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Your body can change alpha-linolenic acid into EPA and DHA. Alpha-linolenic acid is also found in flaxseed oil, hemp oil, marine phytoplankton, AFA Algae (Aphanizomenon flos-aquae), chia seed and walnuts, to name a few sources. These are all good sources of this important nutrient.
Excellent Plant Sources for Omega-3s:
  • Chia seed
  • Hemp seed or oil
  • Flax seed (ground) or oil
  • Microalgae oil
  • AFA Algae (Aphanizomenon flos-aquae)
  • Marine phytoplankton
  • Walnuts
Many people believe that fish is the best source of essential fatty acids, but the high amounts of fat and cholesterol, and the lack of fiber, make fish a poor choice. Also, high levels of mercury and other environmental toxins, such as polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), dioxins, pesticides and herbicides have often accumulated in the fish. Therefore, fish has no place in an optimal diet. Fish oil has only two percent EPA, and has highly unstable molecules that tend to decompose, unleashing dangerous free radicals.

One of the primary reasons for the presence of omega-3 fatty acids in fish is because they eat microalgae. By taking algal oil, you get the essential fatty acids EPA and DHA directly from the source, without the heavy metals and other environmental toxins present in fish.
Health issues associated with fatty acids are largely traced to modern dietary habits of low intake of vegetables, algal oil, nuts and seeds, and a high intake of processed and manufactured dietary fats.
Long-term restriction of essential fatty acids (EFAs) has been related to several disease conditions, including diabetes, heart disease, genetic diseases such as cystic fibrosis, and autoimmune disorders such as rheumatoid arthritis and multiple sclerosis. Excess animal fats have been strongly correlated to increases in chronic diseases. Microalgae oil does not contain high levels of ALA but is very rich in DHA, providing 250 percent more DHA per unit than fish oil. This makes microalgae oil the finest source of these essential nutrients available because the oil has the optimum balance of DHA to EPA and your body puts it directly to work without the multi-step conversion processes of other Omega-3 forms.

According to the Department of Biosciences and the Sri Sathya Sai Institute of Higher Learning, in India, DHA-rich microalgae oil indicates as good a health-promoting effect as any other source.
The nervous system has a high fatty acid content. Lack of EFAs may contribute to conditions such as Alzheimer’s disease and seizure disorders.
The following are some of the functions of fatty acids:
  • Provides structural support for the outer walls or membranes of the body’s cells
  • Helps convert the nutrients from foods into usable forms of energy
  • Assists in cell-to-cell communication
  • Makes it possible for nutrients to pass from the blood through the cell walls
  • Helps substances in the cells to pass into the blood
  • Assists in manufacturing red blood cells
  • Decreases inflammation
  • Lowers triglycerides
  • Makes blood less sticky
  • Raises HDL cholesterol (good cholesterol)
  • Decreases arrhythmias (irregular heart rhythm)
  • Decreases blood pressure
  • Enhances the action of insulin
  • Helps protect against oxidation and ischemic heart disease
  • Reduces PMS symptoms
  • Assists mitochondrial function (energy-producing parts of the cells)
As one can clearly see, essential fatty acids help us in many ways. EPA is the parent of the 3-series eicosanoids that moderate the pro-inflammatory effects that are derived from arachidonic acid. Arachidonic acid occurs in peanuts, meats and animal products. An entire generation of anti-inflammatory drugs, COX-2 (Cyclooxigenase-2) inhibitors, is based on blocking the synthesis of inflammatory eicosanoids. Adding good sources of EPA is a natural way of dealing with excessive inflammation.

EPA deficiencies have been associated with neurological conditions, arthritis, heart disease, cancer, accelerated aging and autoimmune disorders, presumably as a result of direct or indirect effects of inflammatory responses that may be modulated by raising EPA levels.1 – 4 Significant improvements were noted in ADHD, autism, developmental coordination disorder (DCD), learning disabilities, and poor cognitive abilities when they were supplemented with fatty acids, primarily EPA-DHA.5 – 14 An adequate intake of DHA and EPA is particularly important during pregnancy and lactation. During this time the mother must supply all the baby’s needs for DHA and EPA because it is unable to synthesize these essential fatty acids itself. DHA makes up 15 to 20 percent of the cerebral cortex and 30 to 60 percent of the retina so it is absolutely necessary for normal development of the fetus and baby.

Improving neonatal DHA status presents a critical challenge, since this fatty acid is required for brain development,15 and the overall maternal essential fatty acid status tends to decline steadily during pregnancy.

Pregnant women have lower levels of EPA and DHA and higher levels of palmitic acid, which is in palm oil, palm kernel oil and coconut oil.16 The transfer from red cell membrane to fetus may be a special mechanism for ensuring a fetal supply of EFA.

Mothers who eat the standard Western diet may be unable to meet the high fetal requirement for EFA.17 Meanwhile, the mother is more likely to experience postpartum depression related to degradation of EFA status.18 Recent studies suggest that women who eat a diet enriched in essential fatty acids during pregnancy and breast-feeding may enhance their baby’s language development, IQ and cognitive development.

In conclusion, algal oil and some other refined blends offer sustainable sources of high quality essential fatty acids. Microalgae allow a cost-effective supply of sustainable oil feedstock and offer many advantages over traditional oilseed crops such as corn, soybeans or rapeseed.
Algae yield far more oil than traditional oil seeds, as up to 50 percent of algae’s weight can be comprised of oil. Oil-palm trees — currently the largest producer of oil to make biofuels — yields approximately 20 percent of their weight in oil.

Algae grow up to 15 times faster than oilseed crops grown on land. Algae can be grown in marginal lands, in places away from the usual farmlands and in forests, thus minimizing potential stresses to our food chain and ecosystems.

Frequent harvesting diminishes the risk of crop failures in comparison to terrestrial plants. Algae can also reduce pollution by utilizing, via photosynthesis, large amounts of potentially harmful CO2, from industrial emissions, to grow rapidly. As one can clearly see, algae are a good and healthy source of essential fatty acids.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Stats

I have a problem with obsessively checking stats on my blog. There have now been 407 views since I started posting actively earlier in the week. 407 views and 3 followers...can I have more followers? I need more followers, can I have more now? How about now? What about......now? Ok...now? And............now? :-)

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Spinach and their roots!

Nothing overwhelmingly interesting today, and no long drawn out posts either, mostly because I have two huge ones in the works plus the "Garden in July" post which will be in next week.

Today I picked all the spinach, steamed it lightly, and bagged it for the freezer just as I did with the beet greens. The spinach was gigantic (Vancouver variety from west coast seeds - zone 8) with thick stems and great big roots. When all was said and done we ended up with nearly 5lbs according to the kitchen scale, 5 lbs. of spinach wilts down to a pretty pathetic little pile, but it was enough to make 3 freezer bags full even after I cooked some for lunch.

Below is a picture of  a the spinach harvest, this was 1 of 2 big bowls.

Once all the spinach was packed away I went outside to clean up the stalks and roots and had an idea. As far as I knew the entire spinach plant was edible and the leftover stalks and roots were big and juicy, but were they also edible? I rushed back inside to Google it and came up with two things, one was that the roots were edible after being boiled and number two, they were bitter!

Of course I got excited because if an edible plant has a bitter root it probably means it is medicinal as a bitter (bitters react on the digestive tract and increase bile production to aid in the processing of nutrients and also stimulate/clean the liver). I had to try it, I bit into one after washing it and sure enough it was just a little less bitter than a dandelion root (dandelion root is probably one of the most bitter substances I have EVER tasted, supposedly bitter lettuce is worse - I will report if I ever get the courage to try it).

Below is a picture of some of my spinach stalks and roots.

I finished cleaning the roots of dirt and scraped off the external membrane. They all went into a pot where they simmered for 30 minutes (whole, I did not cut them). Afterward they were soft though fibrous and tasted like turnips! Waste not, want not I suppose, I was happy to try something new.

I seeded the next spinach crop and will try this again in roughly five weeks, this time I will use the raw root to see if a proper bitter tincture/decoction can be made from it.

Happy Spinaching!
- Nicey

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

The Great Culling! Or, how to thin and process your beets

Beets are deceiving. When you plant those easy to handle seeds and place them the proper 2 inches apart, you never really think they will sprout up, crowd out each-other, and attempt complete soil domination. Thus, like every iron clad ruler of complete domination, you must cull the masses!!!


The nice thing about beets is the fact that everything on it is edible, from the root to the tops, the beet offers some great simple sugars in the root and some much needed iron in the leaves, not to mention you can fill your leafy green quota quite easily.

Thinning the beets is a crucial step in getting those large globules of beety joy which we all love to eat in the late summer/early fall.

Once thinned you will have a plethora of beet tops and small rootlets to get through - so, what to do with them? Freeze them, baby!


The above photo is a what I pulled from my 4 rows of beets, creating two inches between each plant. Also, if there are plants seemingly growing from the same location, pull the smaller of the two (For only perfection shall be tolerated!).
 
The next step was to wash the beets and separate the roots from the stems. When beets are this young (roughly 6 weeks) not all of them will have an identifiable root. This is just fine, cut the wisp and keep the greens.

Next comes the giant pot. I filled this canning pot to the first line and let it come to a simmer, also added about 2 tbs. of salt to the water. While it was reaching a boil I cut my greens into pieces - I prefer larger chunks but whatever you feel like stuffing in your pie hole is the correct length.

I let the greens wilt for about 2 minutes and then removed them with a wire spoon, you can use a slotted spoon, or really any sort of scooper that lets the water drain.

Here are all my beet greens, wilted and cooling. Its a good idea to have something absorbent beneath them so you don't create a beet green ice cube in the freezer. Let the greens cool to room temperature then proceed to put your greens in a zip-lock or freezer container. Don't forget to label it with the month and date, discard if you have not eaten it within 6 months.


Now you know what to do with your beet thinnings.

Enjoy!
-Nicey






Monday, June 23, 2014

The Three (Four) Types of Common Planter Beds

I received a great question today on Facebook about types of garden beds. I was thrilled to be able to answer this and immediately started typing up a storm to answer the question when I thought that perhaps others would like to know the difference as well.

There are three common types of planter beds, these are:
  • raised beds with no soil access
  • raised beds with soil access
  • the common earth mound

Raised Beds with No Ground Access:


These are the type of beds in my yard, they are literally off the ground and set on feet with a drainage system put in (more specifically, mine are very small slats with a layer of landscaping cloth followed by a layer of gravel, the gravel is in contact with the soil).

The pro to this is that I have full control over the soil intake which is important if you want to be certain that your veggies/herbs are totally organic. For example, I found a soil producer who makes their own organic soil from organic veggie compost and mushroom manure. If you are in the greater Vancouver area and want high quality organic and locally made top soil please contact Its About Thyme Nursery, the owners husband does all the soil deliveries.

The con to this is that you need a pretty good rig for watering since the air circulation around the planters will dry them out in a couple days ( I water mine on a timer every day at 4am for 40 minutes).

Raised Beds with Soil Access:
 


The next option is raised beds with soil access, this means that you have literally dug down into the ground and have created a pit to the dimensions of your planter and have framed out a support for the sides, building them up to the height you desire and then filling with your type of desired soil.

The pro to having raised beds with soil access is that once the plants are well established and a mulch has been placed on top, watering can be spaced out a bit better.

The con to these types of beds is in the soil itself. When we cut into the ground on our properties we don't necessarily know what is in our soil. Are there heavy metals, lead, or arsenic from old pipes? Is there remnants of asbestos from old buildings that were torn down? Was there ever an oil tank in the yard and did it leak? Your plants take their nutrients from the earth, and what is in the earth is literally fed to you - this is partially why I refuse to buy non-organic produce.

 
Common Soil Mound and Hugelkultur
 
 
I am sure the above picture looks pretty familiar to you, this is the most common type of planting and is the common soil mound. When gardening in soil mounds you cut down into the earth to the appropriate depth (generally 10 to 12 inches), turning the earth with a shovel and then mounding it into rows (this is the simplified version). Within the rows you plant your vegetables and herbs, cover with mulch, and water.
 
The pro to this is that the natural function of the soil will hold water well once the plants are established and the mulch is set on top. This is also the original way of planting crops and is a tried and trusted method. If you know what is in your soil, this is the perfect way to go an allows you to alter the size, shape, and even the location of your garden year after year.
 
The con to this is again in the nature of the soil, possible heavy metals, toxic contaminants, and petroleum products. I would not recommend this type of planting for those of us who live in the city.
 
 
Hugelkultur
 
 
Hugelkultur, go on, say it again..Huuuugelkultur. This is an ancient form of gardening and what I like to call (Never water a damn thing ever again). The nitty gritty of this planter is that it is a raised bed with minimal soil access. The general summary for building such a planter is to dig a ditch and fill it with scrap wood - cut up trees, stumps, branches, etc. You then pile this over with soil (organic if you can), water the holy begeez out of it, and plant your veggies, herbs, and fruit trees on top. Over time the wood in the center of the mound begins to absorb water and decompose. This creates a sponge in the center of the mound where plants can received water all year round. It takes 1 to 3 years to really establish a Hugelkultur mound, but once it starts decomposing there is no real need to water your plants.
 
The cons to this is it takes time, and also takes the finding, locating, and transporting of wood. However, this is a great alternative if you live on acreage and want a low commitment garden.
 
To learn more about the details of Hugelkulter, go see the experts.
 
 
Hope that explains the types of plant beds, happy gardening!
 
-Nicey :-)



The Garden in June - What to plant, what to harvest, and what to reseed

I know its late, this should have gone out at the beginning of June, but here it is now, better late than never!

When I first started gardening a few years back I quickly learned that it was not as simple as putting seeds or transplants in the soil. There is a rhythm to gardening, a time for everything, a time for harvest and reseeding, and a time for turning down the beds. 


During the months of June and July gardeners are insanely busy with harvesting the early spring plantings and putting in our fall crops, and impatiently waiting for our more luxurious veggies to finish growing such as the peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, and pole beans.

Looking at my planter boxes this morning, I got a real sense of satisfaction knowing that we are growing our own food, and have for the past couple months been eating salads and greens every day from our greenie box filled with butter lettuce, spinach, chard, and sweat peas.

Here is a photo of the boxes at this morning around 6:30am, they are exploding with growth!

 When gardening in zone eight (aka greater Vancouver), its key to understand that things will grow just a bit slower than everyone south of us. For example my peas did not fully come up until early June due to the cold and my lettuce and spinach are just now in their prime.


So what can be harvested in the month of June? I'm so glad you asked - lets take a look!



 The photo above is my green bed which is currently stuffed with chard, spinach, butter lettuce, and sweet peas, all of which are good for eating right out of the soil. When picking these you don't remove the plant, you simply snip off your leaves for your salad or dish and allow new ones to grow. One thing to take note of with spinach, it will go to seed if the weather gets hot so once you start seeing those flowering heads appear, harvest all of your spinach for the freezer and then replant (you will have another row in about a month), this can be done in the greater Vancouver area until about October. I am not certain if you can see it but there is a new row of lettuce coming in - as we had a bit of no grow incident with my Amish Deer Tongue Lettuce.

Herbs, fruits, and veggies that can be harvested in June

JUNE:
  • Broad Beans
  • Strawberries
  • Asparagus
  • Beetroot (if you planted in March)
  • Broccoli
  • Carrots (Plant in March)
  • Lettuce
  • Onions
  • Peas
  • Potatoes (Plant in March)
  • Radishes
  • Rhubarb
  • Spinach
  • Spring Onions (Plant in March)
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnips
  • Cauliflower
  • Cherries
  • Fennel
  • Garlic (Planted the previous September)
  • Glove Artichokes (These need a full calendar year in the ground)
  • Gooseberries
  • Kohl Rabi

What can be planted in June from starters? (This will be your late summer and early fall harvest)
  • Tomatoes
  • Brussels Sprouts and Cabbages (September harvest)
  • Cauliflowers (September/October Harvest)
  • Celeriac
  • Celery
  • Chicory
  • Chilies and Sweet Peppers
  • Pumpkins and Squashes
  • Cucumbers
  • Endive
  • French beans and runner beans
  • Kale
  • Leeks
  • Sweet potatoes
  • Sweet Corn

What can be planted from seed in June (Again, these will be your late summer, and early/mid fall harvests)
  • Beetroot
  • Broccoli
  • Carrots
  • Chicory
  • Summer Squash
  • Peas
  • Cucumbers
  • Endive
  • Lettuce
  • Chinese Greens
  • Turnips
  • French beans
  • Herbs
  • Kale
  • Kohl Rabi
  • Leaf Veggies
  • Radishes
  • Runner Beans
  • Spring onions

So there you have it! We are now experts in the month of June :-) To close out the post, here are a few more photos of the garden in June.


The above picture is one of the hot beds (hence the giant artichokes), in addition we have calendula (medicinal herb), peppers, bush beans, nasturtium, and climbing beans.


The tomato bed is on the left, we also have basil and dill growing with them. To the right is the French bean box with a few more pepper plants and runner beans in the back.

The roots bed with onions, beets, parsnip, carrots, and some marigolds for good measure.

Hope you enjoyed reading, I'll try to keep up and put in a month by month guide for planting/harvesting.

Happy Monday!
- Nicey










Sunday, June 22, 2014

What does a Medical Herbalist do?



When family and friends find out I am currently studying to be a Medical Herbalist (Practitioner of Herbal Medicine) I often receive vacant smiles followed by a "that's sweet" or "that's nice" with a pause and then the final question "What does a Medical Herbalist do?" I have received this question so many times that I  feel an explanation is overdue.

First, let me tell you what I don't do. I don't distribute marijuana, I don't work with crystals, I don't talk to spirits or your dear aunt Melva, I don't hug trees while practicing primal screaming while naked in old growth forests, and I don't talk to mushrooms psychically (you know who you are).

So, what exactly does a medical herbalist do? Medical herbalists are specialists in plant based medicines, not only do we know what herbs are needed for various illness, but we also know how to identify the healing plants, harvest, and make medicines from the raw materials. Medical herbalists are health care providers who are trained in Western orthodox medical diagnosis and use the aforementioned medicinal plants to treat their patients. Medical Herbalism is a four year degree, with an additional two years if you would like to be a doctor of Natural Medicine (which I plan to do). As herbalists we study Anatomy and Physiology, Pharmacy, Pharmacology, Biochemistry, Botany, Nutrition, Materia Medica, Psychology, Obstetrics and Gynecology, Clinical Practice, Lab Tests and Diagnosis, and a host of other things. In addition we are required to have thousands of clinical hours before we are able to graduate and set out on our own.

So, what sets a Medical herbalist apart from other natural healers? As I mentioned in the beginning, Medical Herbalists are specialists in plant based medicine, this means a very specific thing, we are trained in the pharmaceutical makeup of plants, we learn their constituents (the primary chemicals which make up a plant) and apply the various constituents in patient care - meaning we have an in depth knowledge of how herbs metabolize in the body and also know what plants interact with various pharmaceutical drugs and even how they interact with daily nutrition. This means that our medicines are unique and are dispensed on a case by case basis, with consideration to the whole person including their various chemical intakes (traditional or alternative). 

So, what can we treat? A good herbalist will understand the process of disease and will have an experts understanding of how various diseases effect the body. With that knowledge we can better understand what constituents to apply in treatment. Does the patient have chronic fatigue? We will know (for example) that many cases of chronic fatigue start with issues in the liver, thus a liver cleanse and bitters can be prescribed. If for example a patient is seen with diabetes, an herbalist will known which herbs balance blood sugar levels and which herbs are best used to manage pancreatic distress. Generally herbalists are very successful in the treatment of things such as issues with the immune system, allergies, autoimmune conditions, fatigue syndrome, emotional and hormonal health, fertility, pregnancy, childbirth (herbs to make an easier delivery) , digestion and nutritional deficiencies, skin, heart and circulation, bones and joints. There are also many herbalists who specialize in the treatment of more serious illnesses such as emphysema, heart disease, cancer, and even HIV and AIDS (If you need help in finding an herbalist specializing in serious illness please feel free to contact me OR Google the works of Dr. Hulda Clark, or look up Donna Roth)

Is Herbalism a new form of medicine? The simple answer is a BIG resounding "NO". Medical herbalism has a written history of over five thousand years with materia medica texts dating back to some of the first civilizations. Man kind has used herbal medicine with great success (we are still here after-all) for tens of thousands of years. Herbalism was modern medicine before "Medicine" as we know it - I like to think of it as traditional medicine in which we become fully aware of the cyclic nature of healing.

Does it work? Yes, it works. It works in a manner that is harmonious with our bodies, lacking the side effects of processed drugs (though  processed pharmaceuticals have their time and place). Herbal medicine is not as simple as popping a pill and forgetting about your illness, herbal medicine is not about treating the symptom of disease but rather the cause of the disease, it is medicine for the whole body.

Now you know a bit more about herbal medicine and I feel like I was able to a summarize what I am currently studying.

I will be taking patients in 2017, schedule now :-P



My Kitchen on Crack!

The aftermath of last night's "Solstice Party" - I will be cleaning forever :-(



 

March in BC, what the heck can I grow?!?

Disclaimer: I am posting this in June because I saved it as a draft and then completely forgot to click 'publish' - I R Failz!

Its at this point in the year I start to get really garden antsy. I can look out the window and see all the green things in the yard beginning to push out of the dirt and my trowel finger starts to itch, I begin planning beds for vegetables and plants, and wordlessly beg my little indoor seedlings to start growing just a bit faster.



The picture above just about sums it up!  As soon as the weather clears up I am usually out in the garden turning soil and planting cold hardy seeds and seedlings. So, what CAN you plant in the greater Vancouver area in March? You might be surprised, quite a lot!

Vancouver is situated (based on altitude) in a zone 8, 8a, and 8b growing zone which refers to its climate zone, each zone is divided roughly into zones of plus or minus 10 degrees (for more info on growing zones please go here).  For zone 8 we known that the average annual extreme minimum temperatures 10 to 15 degress farenheit or, for all you Canucks out there -12.2 to -9.4 Celcius at its coldest. Thus, when buying seeds, pay attention to the growing zones on the back of your packaging and memorize number 8 "eight is great!"

Now that you are an expert in understanding your growing zone, we can go forth  knowing full well what can be planted in March. I have listed seeds/plants alphabetically and have only included the more common varieties of veggies, and herbs.

VEGETABLES AND HERBS:

Arugula
Asparagus Rhizomes
Basil (end of March)
Broad Beans
Carrots (Leave these till the last week in March)
Chinese Greens (all the various 'choys')
Common Sorel
Corn Salad
Endive (End of March)
Garlic
Kale and Collards
Lavendar
Lettuce
Mint (Put a clear plastic container over it for the cold nights)
Onion
Peas
Radishes
Spinach (Vancouver variety from West Coast seeds is perfect for our climate)
Thyme (Put a clear plastic container over it for the cold nights)

This is by no means a complete list, and comes from the scope of my experience only.

Happy Planting!

- Nicey

Shade Garden, June 22nd

Its the day after solstice and the weather is warm, I was up at 6am with the brightness of the sun in my eyes and immediately started thinking about my garden. Gardening for me is an obsession, especially since we have a double city lot on which our house is situated (roughly 10 thousand square feet) which has been neglected for a number of years.

Now that the veggies, fruit trees, herbs, and full sun flowers are in, I can begin the guilty pleasure of starting on the shade garden. Our house has two distinct zones (Full Shade and Full Sun), the shady portion being far more neglected than the sunny side. I can see remnants of a giant Hosta (Hosta plantaginea) bed, and there are clematis (Clematis Montana) vines planted already at the base of every tree. There is also the horrendous Bishop weed (Aegopodium podagraria)  which has completely taken over sections of the yard.

I've posted a couple pictures of the shady garden from early April


As you can see, rather unimpressive, and previously having been taken over by juniper bushes (I will regale you with another post about the damned junipers). So what did I put in the shade side of the house? To start, I decided that I would only work the yard in sections as it is the full length of one side of our lot. Today I worked on the section from the end of the rose/white flower bed (still yet to be planted) to the length of roughly 6 feet. I thought this would be easy, 6 feet isn't a lot, right?? When you are shoveling, digging, pulling weeds, raking mulch, and hitting your head on a tree it seems like eternity.

The plants that went into 6 feet of shade garden:

  • New Guinea Impatiens - about 16 of them
  • Oxalis "Iron Cross" Clover - x2
  • Coleus "Splish Splash" - x2
  • The Rocket (Ligularia stenocephala) - x1
  • Astilbe "Vision in Pink" - x1
  • Red Masterwor (Astrantia major) - x1
  • Boneset ( Eupatorium rugosum) - x2
  • Siberian Bugloss (Brunnera macrohylla) -x1
There were a few plants already in the space such as my Iris (Iris virginica), some Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), along with a couple maple trees. Below is a before picture of the 6 foot section which I worked on, as you can see I weeded and spread the mulch before I planted.


 
 
Below is a picture of all the lovely plants waiting to go in:
 
 


 
The next step was to start placing them in the space, this is important because sometimes you change the layout a few times before you start moving soil, its a pain in the butt to finish your bed and then realize you don't like the layout.
 


The hardest part was getting around the roots of some of the bushes and trees, I would start digging and have to alter the hole for the roots below. It all turned out in the end (with a bit of swearing, sweating, and whining).




More to come and many months to go until this sucker is done!

Enjoy your summer,
 - Nicey